The shirt that almost wasn’t…

My first Glasgow Make to get on the blog, and entirely inappropriate weather-wise.

Pattern: The Factory Dress by Merchant and Mills
Made before? I’d made two full dresses for my Nanna last Christmas, unfortunately without the instructions so they were successful wildcards…
Will make again? Yes, I love this shape, the lack of buttons, and how easy the collar is. I might try it with a gathered skirt next time.
Fabric: Vintage drapey something I found in a Vintage/antiques/odds-and-ends store in Glasgow’s West End.

factory top front

I found this amazing large floral print and had to have it. There was probably 2.5m to start with. And I promptly butchered it.

The original idea was to use the free Peppermint Magazine Peplum Top pattern (produced by In The Folds), and hack it with a peplum to make an approximation of my favourite peplum top. That went all sorts of wrong. I misunderstood the instructions for the shoulder panels, fudged the lining several times, tried to cut away the lining, couldn’t find bias tape, etc etc etc. I ended up with a mangled top but a beautiful peplum. I shelved the project for several months…

Then, after a not-amazing trial of the Alex Shirt by Sew Over It, I decided the Factory Dress, with its center front seam, lack of buttons, and simple collar construction, was the shirt pattern for me. I knew there’d be enough of this fabric left to make a toile so I went for it.

I then discovered that the shirt was more than a little cropped. I had wanted a cropped style, but this took it a little too far…enter the afore-mentioned peplum!

factory top peplum

When I first tried this on I wasn’t sure how I felt about it. The collar, and the peplum, and the billowy fit with semi-outrageous print felt like mayyybe a tad too much. But then I wore it cycling into work, and it was beautifully cool and floaty. I also love it paired with  a cropped jumper, so that the collar looks sophisticated popping over the top, but the peplum peeks out and adds some eccentricity. A little eccentricity goes a long way in starting me-made conversations…

factory top back

A little note on the construction – most of my seams here are french seams, except for around the collar, where I couldn’t work out how to do this technique. I still haven’t managed to convince my new machine to zig zag on woven fabric. Anyone have any tips?

What’s your favourite pattern hack? Have you tried to hack the Factory Dress? I think it is an underrated pattern, what do you think?

Happy sewing! xxH

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